Friday, 23 July 2010

From Bethlehem to Ramallah


Saturday July 17th, 2010

Early morning at 8.00 am I reached Notre Dame hotel, the meeting point for the tour to the West Bank that I signed up for. I met 6 American women on the same tour with me. I tried to recruit them for my research. Cold calling technique. I briefly (and maybe not comprehensively enough) told them about my research and asked them to be part of it. They seemed enthusiastic and willing. Later, on the tour I realised they were a bit reticent to talk to me, one was obviously avoiding me. So, I minded my own business and did not try to make conversation with them, so as not to come across too intrusive.

From Bethlehem to Ramallah traffic was jammed at about 15.30 hours as there was a demonstration of Liberation/Freedom Party. There were a lot of checkpoints both Israeli and Palestinians and this slowed down the traffic significantly.

* I wrote this entry in my diary on July 18th.

On the bus to Jerusalem

Friday July 16th, 2010, 11.30 am on the bus to Jerusalem

Stressful morning taking the taxi from the hotel to the central bus station. Unfriendly receptionist. Extremely rude taxi driver: extra fee for the luggage, extra fee for ‘hotel reservation’… as a tourist in Tel Aviv one has to pay extra fees for the air one breathes… air in the taxi is an extra 20 Shekels, air in the bus station is a bit cheaper it is just 10 Shekels, but one does have to pay 1 shekel to use the turnstile that leads to the bathroom, if you happen to travel with a big luggage then you are in trouble, as the luggage cannot pass through the turnstile. My big luggage and extremely weak urinary bladder combined with tight turnstile that one must pass through to go to the restroom made me miss my bus to Jerusalem, luckily the next one is in half an hour.

I am patiently waiting for the next bus. The same landscape as in the central train station, green uniforms and black machine guns. I have asked the lady next to me if she is from Jerusalem and if she knows 'Salah Eid Ein Street'. There is where my accommodation is located. She did not seem to understand the name of the street. I showed her the piece of paper with the address. ‘Oh, it is on the same road with American Colony. It is in the Arab neighbourhood’, her face showed a bit of discomfort and reticence, but she was friendly enough to answer my questions. My experience with people in train/bus stations has been positive, helpful and friendly people. Those working behind a counter are the most impolite and unfriendly people I have ever met in my whole life.

* I wrote this entry in my diary on July 17th.

Tel Aviv Savidor Central Train Station

Thursday July 15th, 2010, Tel Aviv, Israel

I am in the main station in Tel Aviv waiting for the next train to Haifa. As I entered the station I had to have my handbag and my body scanned. Very unfriendly ticket cashier. I did suggest her to try and smile more often. All around I see male & female soldiers, or shall I say girl and boy soldiers, they must be in their late teens. They are all wearing green military uniforms fashionably accessorized with big, black machine guns and huge, rustic backpacks. They all seem to be going home, they have a certain leisurely & relaxed attitude to life and their big guns. Their faces are pretty and happy. Girls are wearing branded sunglasses, make up, they have their hand & toe nails done, they all talk on iPhones, latest Nokias or Samsung mobile phones.

There’s something wrong with this image. Gunned girls & boys in public spaces. Not scary at all, to me it just speaks of an anomaly in a society. I grew up in a military environment with both parents being military officers. I used to go to shooting training sessions with them all through my childhood and teen years. Not even once do I remember my parents bringing their guns or pistols home, it was actually forbidden to take any weaponry outside of the barracks.

Why are Israeli teen soldiers allowed to carry their weapons in public spaces? I do wonder what a person who has only seen weapons on television thinks and feels at the sight of a train station filled with gunned teen soldiers. What does this say about Israeli society? Are they constantly at war or in the expectance of war?
I asked a pregnant lady sitting next to me on the bench why these soldiers are carrying their weapons with them. With a smile on her face she explained that they were each assigned a gun and had to carry it with them at all times. Girls carry weapons as well as boys. When they turn 18 everybody goes to the military, it is a compulsory service, 2 years for females, 3 years for males.

What does the existence of compulsory military service say about a country’s socio-political system?

* I wrote this entry in my diary on July 15th, in the Savidor train station while waiting for the 10.20 am train to Haifa.

Fieldnote, July 14th 2010,

The IGU conference started on Monday, July 12. Right from the very first day in Israel I hEve started asking around conference people about political tourism and/or danger-zone tourism. I talked to Israeli researchers as well as international ones. ‘What is your topic? What are you going to present on?’ were types of questions I was asked. I would say ‘I am looking at the interconnection between political situation in this region and tourism. When I felt more courageous I would reply bluntly and directly ‘Danger-zone tourism’. ‘Oh, like tourism in areas with volcanoes and tsunamis’… ‘Not exactly, tourism that thrives in areas of political instability. I am looking at those enticed by political conflict, at those not scared off by violence but rather attracted to it, those who consider danger more of an impetus than a put off factor. Danger zoners’.
At an informal level, during coffee breaks, reactions ranged from approving to mildly disapproving. A Mexican geographer would say, ‘oh that is really interesting, in Chiapas, Mexico tourists do the same thing, go there to see the conflict.’ A Romanian-American researcher seemed proud that together with his colleagues went on a conference trip, which took them close to the West Bank, thus being closer to the political conflict. An Israeli political geographer opined that ‘normal’ tourists in Israel are not interested in dark sites, that she hadn’t met any such dark tourists. However political geographers like her are interested in war zones when they go abroad, so she might understand this fascination with war zones.
With my presentation the situation was a bit different. I was the last one in my panel, thus, soon after I finished presenting, questions started and for 10-15 minutes all but 1 question were directed to me. The image that best describes how I felt was like a prey devoured by a pack of wolves. Three Israeli women (including the chair and one researcher at Hebrew University of Jerusalem) were shocked to say the least. ‘We’ve never heard of danger-zoners, and for sure not here in Israel. Here people come for pilgrimage, for culture … when there is an uprising like the Intifadah in 2000 tourist numbers drop significantly… you cannot look for something where there is not’. ‘You’ll be in trouble, you will not find anything here and for sure not in Jordan. Jordan is the safest and friendliest country in the region. Everybody loves the king… you’ll be in trouble… who are your supervisors?’

‘You know western people have this exaggerated idea of danger, what they see as danger for us is normal… How would you feel if a westener would go to your native Romania researching poor tourism, you cannot simply come here and look for danger and danger-zoners…’

A German person in the audience compared it to the case of visits to the Berlin Wall saying that such motivations of witnessing death & danger cannot be found as individual, stand-alone motivation factors but interwoven with other ‘more serious’ ones. The Croatian presenter in our panel liked my presentation and the idea of danger-zone tourism, he even asked for my business card and whisperingly he admitted he was a bit of a danger-zoner too.
A Mexican researcher asked about methodology and ethics surrounding my topic.

These were very emotional comments, especially the ones coming from the chair of the session. I answered these comments to the best of my ability. Prof Lex Chalmers was there LUCKILYYYYY!!! Thus I felt supported. I talked to him at the end of the session ‘those Israeli ladies did not get it. I followed your slides and presentation, it was nice & clear, I did not like the slide on modern & postmodern. I think you did fabulously answering the questions'.

Thursday, 22 July 2010

Sunset in Tel Aviv

It's chilly, the wind is cool and crisp. I am sitting on a bench in the park just across Dan Panorama Hotel, the conference venue, overlooking the Mediterranean. I am trying to peel off my own feelings about Tel Aviv. I do not feel anything extra-ordinary or out-of the ordinary regarding this city. There is much talk regarding security procedures at border checkpoints. I have not noticed anything special when entering Israel. I was a bit afraid of the the much talked & extra strict procedures, thus I did not dare ask the border policeman not to stamp my passport, but stamp a separate sheet of paper, as I have heard is the practice for those wanting to travel extensively in the Middle East. I just did not feel like confronting him. After approximately 40 hours of flying the only thing I wanted was to quickly reach the hotel room. The border policeman did ask few detailed questions regarding the purpose of my visit as well as my planned whereabouts in Israel. I was asked if I was planning to visit the West Bank, I lied, I said no even though I had already booked my trips to the West Bank (Bethlehem, Ramallah and so on). It would have been interesting to see what would have happened if I had told him about my plans to visit the Palestinian Territories. I decided to play it smart, to play the same game he did.

* I wrote this entry in my diary on July 12, in the evening.

First day at IGU

IGU opening ceremony

"Israel is one of the safest places" (I. Schnell)

Seriously? Why is then on a lot of countries' travel warning list? USA, UK, Australia, NZ... yes, most of them Western countries. Schnell's speech emphasized on how small Israel is, yet very safe and no one gets bored. "Even if you went through strict security checkpoints, it was done for you to move freely and safely within the country". No comment. I am curious though, how many of the 500 IGU participants bought this explanation.

Palestinians withdrew from IGU.

* I wrote this entry in my diary on July 12, during the opening ceremony at Dan Panorama Hotel.

Munich Airport

At about 6.00 am local time on July 12th I have landed in Munich. I had about 4 hours layover time, I decided to go to the restroom, freshen up and maybe walk around a bit. I saw in the mirror my Christian cross chain hanging around my neck. My immediate reaction was to hide it under my turtle neck, so as not to exhibit any sort of religious orientation especially as I was travelling to Israel. 'Why am I even wearing it? I usually do not wear any such jewels'. Right as I was leaving my house in Hamilton to go to the airport I decided to put it on. I felt I needed a keep-safe, an amulet, especially after the whole talk on extra premium war-zone coverage for my university travel insurance. The emails exchanged with the university staff on this topic made me feel as if I am getting ready to go to war.

* I wrote this entry in my diary on July 12, in the airport while waiting for the connecting flight to Tel Aviv.

In Auckland Airport

After weeks of preparation I am finally in the airport embarking on the next flight to Singapore -Munich - Tel Aviv. I am numb. Paralysed. My mind cannot think anymore. My heart cannot feel. Fieldtrip. Luggage. Extra luggage. Big luggage. Hand luggage. Heavy. Research tools. Diaries. Photo cameras. Batteries. Pens. Big folder. Laptop. Heavy luggage. Heavy body. Heavy mind. I am drowning, emotional heaviness drowns you like a huge rock around your neck taking you to the bottom of the ocean. Too many questions crossing my mind, heavy traffic inside my brain, loads and loads of questions to myself. 'Will I gather enough data? Will I find enough participants? Will international tourists be willing to be part of my research? How will I manage individual interviews? Will I be able to carry out focus groups? How will I feel during my trip? Will I like it? Will I have a good time?
Plans for Israel: - IGU conference attendance, presentation on Wednesday - Meeting Y M in Haifa on Thursday - Visit Tel Aviv - Travel to Jerusalem on Friday, 21st July
Jerusalem: daily tours with toursinenglish.com from Fri. - Tue.
Plans for Jordan: - email Tourist Police - Jordan Tourism Board - Ministry of Tourism and Antiquities - Museum - Jordan Inbound Tourism Association

* I wrote this entry in my diary on July 11, in the airport while waiting for the first flight of my multiple leg trip.

Deciding on a blog

Over the last few years I have become a private individual enjoying what I would call 'my seclusion and solitude'. Many do consider me as a friendly, outgoing and energetic person. I am so. However I have become more selective with networking through channels such as Hi5, MySpace, Friendster, Facebook to name just a few. I am not an active member on any such on-line communities. However, I think it beneficial for my research to start my own blog, even if it is just for the fieldtrip part of my doctorate research. I have long been thinking whether to blog or not, whether to join Facebook to advertise my research. Advertise not understood from a marketing promotion perspective, but to make my research public and known to those interested. Thus, this blog will be an account of my fieldtrip, I intend to record experiences, feelings, emotions I have during my fieldtrip.